Housebreaking the New Puppy: A Plan for Success

Adopting a new pet remains one of life´s simple pleasures. Once the animal is in the house, however, it doesn´t take long to discover that maintenance of a new puppy isn´t quite so simple—and often this epiphany comes just as the darling angel is christening your foyer.

If you know what to expect in advance, the process of housebreaking a new puppy should be more successful and more rewarding. Housebreaking must be viewed as a joint effort, between you and your new puppy. Always remember the "Four P´s": you must offer patience, practice a consistent routine, provide proper cleanup, and praise the puppy to prevent accidents. Acquaint yourself with these good P´s to avoid the bad ones!

Accidents waiting to happen

Remember that puppies have a different physiology than their adult counterparts. They need to eat and drink more frequently, and, in turn, eliminate more often. It is quite predictable that pups will need to void after sleeping, after eating or drinking, and after periods of activity.

Adhering to a fixed feeding schedule and providing controlled access to water are very important steps in establishing a consistent elimination schedule. Letting the puppy over eat or drink too much can sabotage even the best-laid plans. Three meals a day are appropriate for most puppies less than four months of age, and after that time, they can be fed twice daily. Feeding a good quality puppy kibble is generally advised to minimize fecal residue.

One of the most frustrating aspects of housebreaking a puppy can be keeping up with its hectic elimination schedule. Puppies aged six to eight weeks probably will need to relieve themselves ever three to four hours. As they approach three to four months of age, they get better at waiting: at this point in their development, they can go for five to six hours without eliminating. Adolescent dogs of six months or greater should graduate to the adult interval of every eight or nine hours. Planning the day´s schedule to accommodate these basics of biology will help to minimize accidents and to maximize success.

The virtues of crate training

Capitalizing on other canine behaviors should aid in housebreaking the new puppy. Most dogs are very fond of small, enclosed spaces, mimicking a den, and will choose to eliminate away from this area, dedicated to sleeping and eating. These preferences make puppies great candidates for crate-training. A majority of professional trainers and veterinary behaviorists agree that use of a crate simplifies many aspects of behavioral conditioning, including housebreaking.

To crate-train your pup, confine the pet to the crate except when it is eliminating or participating in supervised activities, and make sure to give the animal attention at regular intervals all day. If you´d rather not use a crate, keep the puppy in a confined area, with paper to use as an alternate substrate for elimination. A small, well-ventilated laundry room works well, and confinement in a small puppy-proofed area behind an adjustable baby gate is also a good approach.

As the pup grows to adulthood, confinement may not be necessary. In fact, many puppies will be completely house-trained by four months of age. Of course, they are likely to still display other troublesome puppy behaviors, such as chewing, so the crate remains a good place for unsupervised adolescent dogs.

Your dog will grow more attached to the crate than you would expect; adult canines often will choose their crate over other rest areas as a place to sleep. Bear this in mind when choosing a crate for your pup: be sure to select one that also will accommodate the mature adult. The crate should permit the dog to stand and to turn around, and should be easy to clean and disinfect.

Where your puppy does its "business"

Housebreaking is easier for families that have a private yard or courtyard is available for activity and elimination. Be careful, though, about allowing your new pet to interact with other dogs too early. Puppies should not commingle with other dogs until they have completed their vaccination series and are sufficiently protected against the most common of the viral infections, a maturity level typically reached by 16-18 weeks of age. Nor should they have access to areas where other dogs are eliminating, since some of the most contagious diseases are transmitted through feces.

Apartment-dwelling pets may face special challenges when it comes to housebreaking. The built-in delays of waiting for the elevator or negotiating apartment stairs can lead to lots of accidents. In such situations, paper training can be offered as a temporary solution, until the animal has reached four to five months of age, at which time the puppy may be reconditioned to the use of natural substrates outside. Apartment living makes continued use of paper more practical for some adult dog, as well. Size of the animal is usually the limiting factor.

Whether your puppy goes on paper or grass, it´s essential for you to designate a specific elimination area. At the appropriate times, the pup should be placed upon, or led to, the target area. Encourage your pet to go, using simple, repeatable commands, and don´t forget to praise the puppy lavishly when it performs. Try to avoid distractions and too much interaction during the process. The pup is here to do a task: help him to stay focused.

Trouble-shooting

No matter how vigilant you are about house-training, accidents occur. The key is to correct them quickly and appropriately—otherwise, you will be missing an opportunity to reinforce the pet´s "lessons."

So, if you discover your puppy "in the act" of eliminating in the wrong place, make a loud noise to startle and interrupt it, and then scoop or hustle the pet to a designated area. When the puppy eliminates in this appropriate place, don´t forget to praise it.

Under no circumstances should the puppy´s nose be rubbed into the waste. Also returning the dog to the scene of the "crime" for punishment or repeated scolding. This will be confusing and is likely to be counterproductive. Think positively: most puppies really do want to please you, and eventually will get it right, with patience and consistency.

Anticipate the accidents and arm yourself with good cleaning products that are not ammonia-based, since ammonia smells much like urine, and the pup will be confused about whether the site is an acceptable one. Products that are intended specifically for eliminating pet stains are among the most helpful. Many contain enzymatic compounds to aid in the decomposition of the wastes. Follow label instructions, and get to the stain as quickly as possible to avoid deep penetration of padding or sub-flooring. A layer of paper towels, followed by newspaper, is very absorbent, but doesn´t allow the ink to bleed onto the carpeting.

If the puppy does not seem to be progressing, and there are repeated accidents overnight or between designated breaks, please discuss this with your veterinarian. Pets with urinary disorders or diarrhea will often have increased frequency of elimination as a sign of illness. Be prepared to review your puppy´s routine with the doctor to identify problem areas. If there is no routine, then difficulties may be expected, no matter what the age, breed or health status of the puppy, or for that matter, your family´s level of enthusiasm.

To ensure a successful housebreaking experience, remember that you, the pet owner, are coaching the team. For best results, offer your puppy patience, consistency, and lots of positive reinforcement. You will need a plan for the first few months: the puppy will need lots of pit stops and structured time. The good news is—almost every team wins!

Copyright VetCentic.com Reprinted with permission.